Info: Beginner guide/Non-Depositors guide

Much of this guide is based on my observations when I started out and how I taught myself to play EU. While the learning curve in Entropia is pretty steep, the teaching yourself part is pretty much a cliff because the resources for Entropia are very extensive. So being able to use those resources and guides explaining how to use those resources pretty much don't exist. Hopefully this guide will help with some of that. Along with many other things that are basic, but are further extensions of basic guides.

This guide is mainly geared toward sweaters and non-depositors however much of the info and tactics can be applied for all beginners who do light/mid deposits.

I have updated this as of 1/25/13 however currently it is in the draft version so be alert new sections will probably have bad syntax and grammar until either ppl post whining about it or I fix it.


Warning math ahead....

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Contents
Society/Mentor interaction 4
Sweating... sweating... OH GOD MAKE THE SWEATING STOP. 8
Swunting Swunting Swunting 9
What to do with your loots? 10
Let’s Talk a bit more on numbers. 12
Eco eco eco 12
1. Finishers. 15
2. Regen rates and damage per second (DPS). 15
3. Let's look at Limited items. 16
4. Tiering and Enhancers 19
5. Beginner Cheat sheet. 21
Missions/Quest and the rewards you get. 23
HELP!!!!! I'm not getting anywhere. 25
You’re first iron mission. 25
A few other research notes. 27
Crafting 28
Warning DO NOT DO CRAFTING 28
Residue 28
What residue goes where 29
First basic crafting circle 29

 
Basic concepts

Breakdown of terms used in this guide: Last update = 1/25/2013
EU = Entropia Universe
PED = Project Entropia Dollars
PEC = Project Entropia Cents
Swunting = Extracting sweat from a mob until it becomes 'dry' then killing that mob
Fapping = Using a heal tool to increase the health of an avatar
FAP = First Aid Pack
ECO = Economic/Economical
REGEN = Rate at which a mob regenerates its health points
AH = Auction House
This guide is aimed at giving new players a basic understanding of Entropia Universe (EU). It will show you where and how to get the info you need and strategies to help you get the most out of your time and/or money. Specifically we will look at what paths you can take as a non-depositor. While this guide is geared mostly to non-deposit players it is good for depositors as well. Simply skim the sweating sections or read them at a later time.
If you want to read another good guide for a breakdown of the very basics of the game such as setting up your auto-tool to sweat with, movement, firing weapons and so forth I suggest
http://rp.apachenet.de/downloads/planet_calypso_guide.pdf

A basic, but important concept of EU, for non-depositors, is this simple scale.

PED spent ----------------------------------- Time spent

In a nutshell, the more PED you spend the faster you'll get to whatever goal you're looking to reach. For example, if you've got 1 million PED to spend instantly, then in 1 day you'll be one of the highest skilled players in the game, reaching a goal that only a handful of players have reached often taking 5+ years to get there. This is done by buying skill implants from the auction and implanting them into your avatar. However, the trade off in becoming highly skilled in 1 day is the massive cost, the very non-economical way you reached that goal and a very 'skill' unbalanced avatar, because some skills and more importantly knowledge have to be obtained through simply playing the game.

The other side of this scale is time spent. You can if you want never spend or cycle any PED in EU and eventually get to profession 100 in all your skills. However, you would probably have to play 18 hours a day, 7 days a week for 40 years, but you can do it.

This simple example reflects the 2 extreme sides of reaching your goal. As a non-depositor you start out on the most extreme side of the "time spent" section of the scale. You have zero PED and nothing but time. It doesn't matter how little time you may have to play, be it 1 hour a day or 6 hours a day you are strictly on the time spent side of the scale.

So as a non-depositor, with time being your only and most important resource, good time management is essential. So this guide is as much about managing your time as it is about sweating and grinding. The first thing to learn about time management is multi-tasking. Start by playing EU in windowed mode, this eliminates 'alt-tabbing' out delays and you can still keep an eye on what's going on in game whilst doing something else such as reading this guide while your avatar sweats a mob. If you're not sweating while you're reading this, you're doing it wrong. At the very least you should be downloading the game at this point.

Sweating is boring, very boring, so boring that you'll begin to think crazy things. Hey look! A rusty spoon, let me scoop out my eyes for fun! To avoid quitting EU (or eye scooping) you need to find other things to do besides just staring at the screen while sweating. This is where managing your time and muti-tasking will keep you from quickly going insane. Sweating in 'windowed mode' allows you to start building your knowledge of EU by reading guides like this and the many forums available. Here are some to get you started.
https://www.planetcalypsoforum.com/forum/
Since I started on calypso here is its specific planet forum.
https://www.planetcalypsoforum.com/forums/forum.php


An important point to understand when researching through the above forums is that these two have been around the longest and thus have info from many different versions of EU. As a general rule I would say that info that's more than 1 year old should be verified for its relevancy to the current version of EU. This can be discussed with your society, mentor or cross referenced against this website http://www.entropiawiki.com/Page.aspx?page=Main+Page

Much as with the forums, you will find many guides so make sure they are somewhat up to date. The last updated date should be near the top or bottom of any guide. If that date is over one year old you'll need to recheck a lot of the math parts of the guide to make sure they are still correct. The main drawback of using http://www.entropiawiki.com is that it's a 'heavy' research tool and if you don't know the question you want answered, you're never going to find anything useful on it.
If you don't have a society or mentor, which is fine I didn't get one until about month 5 of playing, you're going to be doing a lot of your own research. Not just to answer questions you have but to figure out what you need to know. Having a mentor and/or society tends to be of great benefit, assuming you find a good one.

The next section is as much for you as it is for your mentor/society and is about how you should interact with them and how they should interact with you (hopefully). If you have neither you can Just skip over the next section and go straight to the SWEATING section and come back and read this later.
Society/Mentor interaction

For many who are reading this you either already have a mentor, a society or both. Some reading this are mentors or higher level players in a society. As a non-depositor when you start out you really can't interact that much with your mentor/society since pretty much the only thing you will be doing is sweating... and then sweating more. However there is one very important thing you can do both for yourself and for your mentor/society. This is fapping (healing) for your mentor/society when they hunt using either your 'Vivo T1' or 'herb box'.

The herb box is the second best eco med kit in the game that 99.999% of players have access too. The main draw back to the herb box is that it doesn't heal a lot of health points (HP) per second thus making it ineffective for self-healing in combat when you start hunting bigger mobs. However it’s still much better then T1 for combat healing. The average hunter would end up dead or dead broke using the 'herb box' as a combat fap. However, this is where you come in, you can heal your mentor or society mate while they are shooting thus saving them a great deal in healing costs and gaining yourself valuable healing skills.
The most eco fap that average players will have is the SI Heart. The SI Heart has by far the best Eco of any fap easily gotten. It does have some major drawbacks though. First is very very slow in healing. An herb box heals roughly 6.56 heal per second when maxed. The SI Heart heals when maxed roughly 4.43 per second. The other major drawback is the fact it maxes at profession 15 roughly. This means you as a newer player will not get anyway close to the maxed stats and will take a heavily penalty. So you need to use the herb box until at least 6 but should probably wait until 8-9 profession range before you can start using the SI Heart effectively.

To break this down, a commonly used combat FAP is the EMT-2600. Many people use this as their primary FAP for solo hunting. When maxed (by skills) the EMT-2600 heals 42 HP at a rate of 18 HP per second (27 uses per minute). The problem with the EMT-2600 is its very bad 'eco' even when maxed out (4.67). On the other hand the 'herb box' has an eco of 10.06. This means if you were to heal for 1050 HP using the EMT-2600 it would cost 2.25 PED. Healing the same 1050 HP using the 'herb box' is just 1.04 PED. As you can see it's slightly more than twice the cost/savings. For the sake of making the math easier we're going to call the EMT-2600 5pec eco and the herb box 10pec eco.
Also going to say the herb box has 2.5 PED of "usable PED" for healing. To break down the simple math of the herb box vs. the vast majority of FAP's it works like this.

For every herb box you use to heal your mentor or society mate you save them directly in healing costs 2.5 PED vs. most FAPs such as the EMT-2600. Now in itself this is not huge sums of money but let's look at some time tables. On average a person using a maxed out herb box (paramedic skill 2.2) will burn through 1 herb box per 15-25 minutes. The reason for there being a big range is due to how much combat you're doing over that time span.

Some mobs tend to be very spread out requiring more walking and long range pulls to get into combat. Other times you may not need to heal as much, it all depends on what's being hunted and where. We're going to go with 30 minutes per box for an even number, you can do the numbers yourself for 15 minutes should you need to.

For example let's take a mentor or society mate and say they hunt 4 hours a week. This would roughly use up 8 'herb box' (or 20 PED worth of healing). This same healing done with the EMT-2600 would cost roughly 40 PED. At a month 80 ped vs. 160 ped, a year 960 vs. 1920+. A difference of over 96 dollars. Let's move it up to 8 hours over a week. This breaks down to 40 ped for the herb box and 80 ped for the EMT-2600. At a month that's 160 ped vs. 320 ped, a year that roughly 1920 vs. over 3840 ped and difference of more than 1920 ped (or close to 200 dollars). No longer chump change.Also keep in mind this is direct saving in healing no other side benefits which we will get into below.

Let's say you're hunting Atrox which have a higher regen rate. Young regen is 4.7HP per second with an Alpha being 8HP per second. Now let's say you have to heal in combat with these targets, if you're using the EMT-2600 it takes 2.2 seconds for the EMT-2600 to reload. Plus a little to change to and from (figure that as being .8 seconds), so let's go with 3 seconds total to do one heal and back to shooting. That's 16HP or basically 1 more shot for the young and 24HP for the alpha.
Realistically do you ever heal just once?... most people tend to heal at least 3 times so that's 6.6 seconds plus .8 for change over so let's call it 7.5 seconds. At 7.5 seconds of that's 35 health for the young and 60 for the alpha. So let's say you have prefect damage (no over kill) and an eco of 3 Dmg/PEC. For our first set of just one heal it's going to cost you roughly 5 pec for the young (16HP), 8 pec for the alpha (24HP).

For the second set of 3 heals it's going to cost you roughly 12 pec (25HP) and 20 pec (60HP). Let's push these numbers out a bit more to 500 Atrox.

First set for young's 8,000 health for 26.66 PED in regen costs. First set for Alphas 12,000 health for 40 PED in regen costs.

Second set for young's 17,500 health for 58.33 PED in regen costs. Second set for Alphas 30,000 health for 100 PED in regen costs.

Armor decay is also a factor. When self-healing this gives the mob more time to attack you thus increasing your repair costs. I don't do armor and depending on which set you're wearing is going to relate to how much decay you get, but figure you're probably going to take 1 extra hit per target, look at what armor you wear and then X by 500 and that's your added repair costs.

Now keep in mind were being pretty generous in our numbers here. How many people really have 3 Dmg/PEC eco? Not a lot, most are 2.8-2.9. So you can add a bit there plus more for over kill. Also as most seasoned hunters know when you pull out the fap to self-heal, chances are you're going to get hit once every 3-6 time you fap. All of these factors, of which many are hard to judge, add up so the numbers above should be considered the "best" case for lost PED.

Over the short term, these numbers are small but once you start looking over the course of a month you're talking hundreds of PED, possibly thousands, and once again as stated above these are "best case" numbers yours could be much higher.

So what use is this info to you the new player/non-depositor? This info is so you can beat it over the head of your mentor/society mates so that they understand that taking you along as a fapper saves them cold hard cash (everyone loves cold hard cash right?).

There may be some well used excuses/whines from your mentor/society mates such as...
"It's not really going to save me that much." Your response is to continue beating them over the head with the numbers.
"The herb box heals too slowly to be really useful for the target I'm hunting." For this there are a couple of responses. If you're by yourself you could say "It's true that I may not be able to keep you fully healed however I will still save you PED due to being more eco and I will reduce the number of times you have to self-heal which will more cause you shoot more and take less damage overall."

If you're not by yourself you could say. "Well if XXX comes with us with an herb box as well, we can double the healing and it will be more eco than healing yourself." Or with 3 herb box fappers. "Well the 3 of us together heal faster than the EMT-2600 plus were much more eco." Just tailor your responses to whomever you're talking to. Don't just cut and paste. hehe.

For Society/Mentors, if there is one thing that is never in short supply its new players. This combined with herb boxes can be a powerful healing force. True it may take 3 noobs to heal you at the rate of a EMT-2600 but hey as said before lots of them around. Use them and you're going to save yourself cash and help them out with their skill gains.
Another thing that's nice about being a decay medic is that you're going to get flown to different places. This results in you getting TPs (instead of just having a Society mate/mentor wasting time and fuel flying you around solely to get TPs) and more importantly you're going to see where people hunt and what lives in what areas. This will help you later on as you won't have to be asking "where do I hunt X mob" all the time.

It's important as a mentor/society member that you interact with your new players, the more time you spend doing stuff with them the more likely it is that they are going to complete the mentorship programs and stay with your society. This benefits everyone, from the game to the mentor and new players. So whenever possible ask your disciple or new society member if they want to gain some skills using the herb box or Vivo T1 FAP.





Sweating... sweating... OH GOD MAKE THE SWEATING STOP.

We covered some basic things to do while sweating earlier in this guide and now I will expand on that and give you ideas of things to do while sweating. There are two basic ways to sweat. Solo sweating which is ideally just you and your sweat target or group sweating which is you, a bunch of other people and your target.

Solo sweating will gain you more skills and depending on your evader level, however less sweat than group sweating. Group sweating tends to get you more sweat assuming you have a coordinated and fair sized group but overall far less skill.
Waiting for your avatar HP to regen will normally be the bulk of your 'down time' when you first start out sweating. It can be very bothersome because it will take about 2-3 minutes to fully heal without using a fap, which means you can't really go do something away from the computer in that time, but at the same time you're still waiting. Finding something to do during this 'down time' is just as important as doing something while you sweat. Probably the simplest thing to do is read a book. This book can be anything from entertainment to studying or learning. You're going to have time so if you're in college or want to learn a new skill but find the reading boring and slow, breaking it up with playing the game can help you deal with both the game and the book being boring.
Other things including watching TV shows/movies on the internet or even playing one or more other games at the same time.

Double your sweat... sweat in real life! One of the simple ways to deal with healing 'down time' if you're solo sweating or swunting is to physically work out at the same time. Sweat a target and once it's 'dry' kill it, then during your avatars healing cycle do something simple like 10 pushups. Doing a short set of exercises while healing will kill the time as well as fit in a real life workout session.

A simple work out would be cycling 10 pushups, 25 jumping jacks, 10 sit ups. Add other things into the mix as you see fit. Another thing to add is some minor weight lifting. The down time in healing becomes your workout time and the time you're sweating becomes your rest time from working out.

The internet. Sweating makes plenty of time to check out the latest news and other things going on via the internet. Reading a favorite blog, checking stocks or any of a number of things can be done while sweating. Also in reverse... if you're reading the news or doing other things on the internet you may as well be sweating too.


Swunting Swunting Swunting

I strongly suggest that as a new player you never hunt only swunt! Swunting is where you sweat your target 'dry' then kill it. And there are advantages to swunting vs hunting. The first and biggest is skills. When group sweating at Neas Place or Limnadian District your early skill gains will quickly drop off. Except in skills like 'sweat gatherer' and 'concentration', your combat skills such as 'evader' will begin to slow down unless you're getting attacked a lot and being healed a lot. You could spend hours at Neas Place or Limnadian District and only get a handful of evader skills. If you don't have a healer and you do get attacked a lot you're not going to get much sweating done.

On the other hand swunting, even puny mobs, can get you a percent of evader profession over an hour or two depending on your current skills. The reason why this is important is because 'evader' along with 'dodger' and 'jammer' are the most "eco" skills in the game. Which means if you evade, dodge, jam the enemy you can achieve zero damage which means no healing and no armor costs (when you start wearing armor).

At the lower skill levels, mostly for people who choose ranged weapons, they will easily be able to kill puny's and many other type of low level creatures without letting them get close enough to attack the shooter. This means they will rise quickly in the 'sniper' or 'pistol' skills but they will gain next to nothing in evader and other defensive skills.

At some point, probably when you try to kill something that's Lvl8-Lvl10 it's going to close in and take you apart with ease because you can't kill it before it bites you in half. This leaves you with a choice. Either get a much bigger gun which for a time will overcome this problem, wear armor or use a combo of both.


In your avatars early days armor is a pure money sink, it does nothing for you at the lower levels except suck PED out of your pockets. If you choose to put on armor you're adding to your costs plain and simple. At the higher levels the benefits start to balance out with the costs but it will be a long time before you reach that point.

As to upgrading your gun well you'll probably need a gun 10 or more levels above what you're hunting and that gap will quickly increase. At some point you’re going to have to take your hits and grind 'evader', 'dodger' and 'jammer' up, so you may as well do it now. The only way to increase 'evader' and 'dodger' skills is to be under attack or chip in. Swunting gives you an excuse to be engaged in close combat. Plus unlike group sweating where you spent almost no time in combat, in swunting you're always under attack by the mob the whole time. The only other way to increase evader skill is to throw on armor and sweat. This is not eco, so unless you're grinding to grind, HP is free you should take advantage of that.
In the end its a personal choice based on your play style, how much time you have and how good at multi-tasking you are. I can easily swunt while doing many other things just like when I sweat. However swunting as opposed to sweating does require you to "play the game" more.

What to do with your loots?

There are three main ways to handle loot.
1. You sell everything back to the TT.
2. You TT only items with a mark-up below X % (It's a personal choice it could be 102% or 103% some people go as high as 105%).
3. You hold onto everything waiting for someone to buy your looted items at the best possible price, which can take a long time. I will break down the pros and cons of these strategies.

First the "lets TT everything/everything under X% mark-up" way. As a swunter, once you've sold the sweat, you pretty much never return with less than 100% TT value you spent on the swunt. Most of the time you will have 120% or more return, so if you want to cycle more PED you can (without depleting your current PED balance) TT most of stuff that you either can't sell on the auction house (AH) or that's simply not worth reselling at locations such as Twin Peaks. The big 'upside' of this style is that you can recycle your PEDs very quickly thus gaining skills faster. The straight forward 'down side' is that you lose the potential mark-up % and thus over time you're losing PED.

However there's another less straight forward 'down side'. That is as you cycle PEDs swunting you're acquiring sweat and more sweat. Since you're not going to Twin Peaks, Neas Place or Limnadian District to sell your sweat you're also never around people that buy sweat. This means after you've gathered several thousand sweat you're choices are to continue sweating or hang out at one of the above three places looking for a sweat buyer. The good side is that if you start with a large PED card (say 100 PED) as you swunt you're going to end up with about 20-30k in sweat, which generally will be easier to sell than say 4k. However when you first start out you're not going to be swunting through 100 PED per swunt thus you will have a more difficult and longer time trying to sell the smaller amounts and getting the price that you want for it.

Second the "I'm hoarding it all until I get max mark-up/mark-up I want from my loot". With this method you try to make max value for all loot thus getting max PED. Basically you never sell for less than markup % or the mark up % you think it's worth. The big 'upside' is that you're going to get every last PEC for everything that you loot thus turning a 100% return into a 110% return.

There is also the 'down side'. Let's say you go out with 10 PED ammo and swunt. You get a return of 130% for a total of 13 PED in value, broken down as 6 PED in sweat and 7 PED in loot. Even if you sell that sweat immediately you will now only have 6 PED to spend on more ammo because the other 7 PED will be held in loot value waiting to be sold... It could be a long wait, maybe a month or more to get the max % mark up when sold. This means if you want to go out with another 10 PED in ammo and swunt again you need to collect another 4 PED worth of sweat. This means back to the sweat lodge for direct sweating a lot. Frustrating isn't it?

So end run... Which is better/which should you use. Well really you need to use both. When you look at some of your low end % markup loot on the yearly graph sometimes they spike many times throughout the year. A good example of this is Christmas time, as every year people deposit Christmas money and thus tend to buy more stuff. On the other hand many people stop playing over Christmas creating market shortages which you utilize to sell your stored items at average % mark up or even more.
The reality is that it's only Christmas once a year and hoarding 1,000 PED's of animal hide over the course of 11 months to get 103% return instead of TT value is going to greatly slow down your general avatar progress. So if it's near Christmas you may want to start stacking things for the Christmas sales... But stacking that stuff in say March probably isn't the best move. So you need to pick and choose, sometimes based on the loot itself how long you plan to hold on to it to get the price you want.
The important thing about trading is accepting the fact that you’re going to say “No Deal” a lot even when you’re trying to sell your loots quickly. Bartering with people on prices is also an important skill.

Let’s Talk a bit more on numbers.

To complete your mentorship you have to cycle roughly 1000 PED this is based on strictly hunting and being a decay fapper. If you mix in mining, repairing and crafting you may spend less or way more. Now before you say "WOW $100 to complete mentorship!" It's not anywhere near that much in direct cost, that's just the total amount of PED's you will cycle through. Once you get about 100 PED on your card you can cycle that in about 10 swunting cycles or break it down to 10 PED over 100 swunting cycles. For you the non-depositor the cost is basically meaningless since every swunt will be 100% return or greater. Once again only time is the factor and it may take 3-6 months to finish once you start cycling PED. That is not a bad thing since it takes a long time to learn the game and even know what questions to ask your mentor.
Other numbers, it will take you roughly 20 PED cycled to max out the Kiwio rifle that you find in the calypso trade terminal (TT). You will cycle roughly 200 PED (or 4 broken Kiwio) to get to 'rifle skill profession 5' to max out the other TT rifle (Opalo). You may need to do up to 250 PED (or 5 broken Kiwios) it depends on how much sweating and decay medic work you do. On calypso, no matter what your future weapon choice intends to be, the Kiwio is the weapon you're going to use for a very long time. This is because the Kiwio is very high eco next to the other TT weapons and pretty much perfect for killing 'puny mobs'.

Eco eco eco

What is eco and how can I be eco in the future beside just swunting. Eco can be broken down into a few basic points.
How much damage you do per PEC spent.
How much damage you do per second.
How much MU you pay on L weapons/armor/healing/etc., healing and armor repairs for Non-Limited gear.
Overkill in weapon damage ability.

Swunting is great for lower level players and as a time sink when waiting to sell things. However as you grow and want to hunt bigger things swunting will start to take a smaller percentage of your time. This section will try to give you the basics so you can teach yourself to max out as much damage with as little in repair and healing costs for these future hunts.

First some basics for eco. Viewing http://www.entropiawiki.com you can select all your equipment and view a huge sum of info about it. For new players this is very confusing and much of it is not useful. We'll first begin by detailing what info you need to know from entropedia and how to adjust the info presented to get to what you need.

Above and below the weapons list there are filters. If you know what you're looking for you can use these filters to limit what info is displayed. For this example we're going to go to the "Type:"(found above and to the left of the weapons list) filter which currently says "All". Click this and select "Laser" should be a little more than halfway down the list. As you can see it has adjusted the weapon display to show only laser based weapons.

Below the weapon display you will now see the second filter set of tabs. Pick "Carbine" this will remove all handguns, rifles and other non-carbine laser weapons. At the bottom right of the weapon list you should see "Items per page: 15" change this to 25 and then directly to the left of this pick the red number 6 for page 6.

The main weapon that any new player just starting on Planet Calypso is the Sollomate Kiwio Mk.II (L). Make sure you're looking at the Mk2(should be roughly in the middle of the list). Probably the single most important info in regards to being eco is dmg per pec spend. This is listed as Dmg/PEC on the right side. It's important to understand that this rating is based on your skill enabling you to max the weapon (i.e.: a profession 100 weapon it assumes your profession 100 to match it).

For the Kiwio Mk.II you get an eco of 2.832. I consider anything above 2.8 as a "good" eco (not great but good). However as above you need to max the Kiwio in order to get this eco. The Kiwio maxes at profession 1 for dmg/hit. So in order to get this eco you need to be at least profession 1. So let's assume that you have never fired any weapons in game what is the eco on the Kiwio?

This can be found by using another filter. If you're looking at the weapon list look for "Carbine" and "Laser" columns then look up. You should see 4 boxes with titles
Skill based(help)
Effective damage
Mark-up based
Eco based
These are more filters and they're explained at the top of the page. For this guide I will also explain them. One of the boxes is already checked (Effective damage). You should always have this checked. You're going to check the first box "Skill based (help)". Then to the right you should see Hit profession: and Damage profession:. In these two boxes put a 0. Then click apply.
Now if you look back at the Kiwio Mk.II you'll see the Dmg/PEC has dropped to 2.070. This is because now entropedia is listing the eco for all the weapons assuming profession 0 instead of profession 100. This will let you see the exact (near enough) eco on each weapon which is based on your current (or future) profession skill levels. Now let's go back and change those 0s into 1s. You'll note that the Kiwio has returned to 2.832 in eco. If you look at the next weapon you'll see the Sollomate Opalo. This is the next easy gun to get after the Kiwio. You can see its eco at profession 1 is listed at 2.163 which is insanely bad eco. The Opalo maxes out at profession 5 so go ahead and change the numbers to list 5 and click apply. Now you can see that the Opalo has returned to its max eco of 2.752. You'll also note no change in the Kiwios eco. As above anything over 2.8 I consider "good" eco... Many ubers and mid-level players who have not kept up with the constant changes in the game consider the Opalo a good eco starting weapon... IT IS NOT. That's not to say it's a horrible eco weapon but other weapons are more eco. I bring this up for two reasons, one above already listed because many uneducated mentors will tell you to use the Opalo, when in fact you should stick to the Kiwio for a long time. The other reason is group swunting... Many people like to group swunt with an unamped Opalo. THIS IS BAD DON'T DO IT. Note how I said unamped.
Let's look at another option entropedia has to offer. To the left of the ‘Skill based(help)’ you will see some more boxes, the top one saying (Select energy amplifier) click hit and look for the 3rd to last displayed it should be the Omegaton A101 (dmg 3). Once you have it selected hit apply on the right. Note how the Dmg/PEC numbers have changed into green and red and the numbers have adjusted as well. Note how the Kiwio is listed in red numbers and that its eco has dropped to 2.252, this is because the amp doesn't work efficiently with the Kiwio (aka the amp is too big for the weapon). On the other hand for the Opalo you see a green number and that number is 2.861 which is higher than its old eco of 2.752 (and that of the Kiwio's 2.832) and also above 2.8 making it "good". You should not be using the Opalo until its maxed (i.e. you have prof 5 in laser sniper and laser dmg) nor should you ever use it without an A101 amp. Now there are other amps besides the A101 that can be used on the Opalo however they are Limited and Limited items will be covered later, so you can figure out your eco on them.

So let's look at the two times when direct Dmg/Pec eco listed on entropedia doesn't apply.


1. Finishers.
Finishers are used to prevent over kill. Let say that you are attacking a target and it has 100 health. Your gun does 20-40 dmg per shot(30 dmg avg) you shoot it 3 times doing 95 total damage. Well it's got 5 health left. Well shooting it again is going do only do 5 point of dmg or 1/6th of the average and thus its only 1/6th of the eco. So even if your gun is say 3 dmg/pec eco you would divide this by 1/6th and you get for your last shot an eco of .5 dmg/pec... which of course is very bad. To fix this you need to use a smaller weapon that only does around 5 dmg. Generally your old main weapons become your finishers. When you’re stronger your Kiwio will become your finisher and then the HK110 and so forth.

However sometimes this is not the case or you want to maybe use a different class of weapon such as melee. When looking for finishers the two main things you want are LOW MAX DMG and HIGH DPS(damage per second) or in simple terms a weapons that doesn't do much damage but fire really really fast. Generally you also want your finisher to do about 1/2-1/3 the dmg of your main weapon.

Some people use 3-4 finishers so they have a weapon that does 1/2 the damage of the main then the next finisher does 1/4th and then 1/6th 1/8th. As a noob you’re not going to have 3 weapons to run through so it's not a big deal for you however in the future you may consider this option. Be warned that it does take practice to use more then 1-2 finishers. Also be alert that your target will often be healing in combat and thus if you try to stack more finishers on for max eco, at some point you'll start losing to the regen rate and stop being eco. To sum it up don't be afraid of a little over kill but do try to keep it to just a little.

2. Regen rates and damage per second (DPS).

Regen rates refer to how fast your target is healing as you’re are fighting it and Damage per second is how much damage you’re doing over a set time frame (per second in this case). When you first start out most of the targets you're going to be fighting will have almost no regen rate. However as you start moving into the L8+ mobs regen rates increase greatly depending on the target.

If you do less damage then the mob self-heals, then guess what? You're never going to kill it and having a 10 dmg/pec eco gun is meaningless. High DPS can be eco in itself. If you kill your target quickly you will save on healing and armor costs as well as it will regen less thus requiring less dmg to kill. Since you should avoid using armor for the most part this shouldn't be a huge factor for you unless you're doing events or something that puts you in armor.

Generally when you looking to hunt you should be trying to kill your target in less than 15 seconds. Many Opalo hunts have the problem of trying to attack things too big for the numbers they have. They spend 45 seconds to 90 seconds to kill something and all that time you’re being !!!!! by regen and your eco is going down with every shot.

More time in combat means more healing and repairing that you have to do and more healing the target does. Kill it quickly and if you can't then you shouldn't be hunting it.

The next thing is how you know a mob is high regen. Well hopefully before you hunt anything you look it up in entropedia. Now this doesn't mean that regen rate is always listed however. You can kind of tell though based on some second hand info. Almost always health and dmg is listed in entropedia. This combined with the new Level system displayed above the target can help you fill in the missing regen rate. This can be done by looking at the L rating and then looking at the health and damage. If the L rating is high but the health and damage numbers are low chances are that it has high regen. This is because the L rating generally is a combo of how much health it has, how much dmg it does and how fast it regens. If health and damage are low then chances are regen is probably high.

3. Let's look at Limited items.

I am generally not a fan of any L items. It's not so much that they are bad/good but because you have to put a lot effort into using them properly and as a new player you're not realistically going to have all the knowledge you need to properly use them effectively. Also you really shouldn’t need anything other than the kiwio for a while. Much of the following will be about how to do research and understanding that research to make the most out of L weapons and such. This will help you to figure out what L equipment you can/want to use in the future for yourself instead of having to ask people who may or may not know what they’re talking about.
Open up http://www.entropiawiki.com and go to weapons. Then in the "type" filter pick "Grenade". You'll first note how all Grenade launchers are limited. They also use non-TT based ammo "explosive projectiles". This means that both the weapons and the ammo will have mark up. Ammo is looted so you can save up your ammo to use these weapons and some of the launchers are looted. However chances are you're not going to loot a steady supply of either much like all limited gear. Same goes with crafted items unless you become a very good crafter. Realistically you're going to need to buy what you want.
Please note for the Eco that all grenade launchers fall into the "good" eco groups (i.e. above 2.8). However this assumes that the weapon is maxed and there is no mark up on weapon or ammo.

We already talked about using the "Skill based (help)" filter; let's look below that to the "Mark-up based" box. Check this box and look over to the right. Before you put info into the Hit/Dmg Prof boxes for here you will use the "Mark-up" and "Ammo mark-up". For now let's not put anything in those boxes but just click "apply".

You'll note that the eco numbers have changed. This is because if you look to the column to the left of Dmg/PEC you'll see "mark-up" and then a list of % numbers. By checking the "Mark-up based" box and hitting apply entropedia has used the mark-up listed in this columns to adjust the Dmg/PEC numbers. The issue with this is the mark-ups tend to change weekly and sometimes daily so these values tend to be old or averaged over the year. We need real time info on what you see from the Auction House. The easiest way to get this info is simply by having the game running and the auction house up with what items you're looking to buy displayed. So you see your item (Vumpoor J 4 (L) as this is the noob launcher) and it's got a mark-up of say 120%. Well this mark-up is different than the one listed. So go back up to where it says "Weapon mark-up" and type in 120 and then click apply. Note that all mark-ups in the mark-up column have been changed to 120% and the eco numbers have been adjusted. The numbers have taken a nose dive to 2.736 (from 2.863 when you made no adjustments). However the pain is not finished yet. We have ammo mark up to add and let's say that ammo is 103% type 103 into the ammo mark-up box and hit apply. Note the drop again. This is the eco you get if you bought the weapon at 120% and the ammo at 103%.

Another way of getting this info is to find out what the highest percent mark-up you can buy at to get the eco you want is to use the last box "Eco based". Check "Eco based" box this will uncheck the "mark-up based" box. Where is says "weapon mark-up" delete the 120 and replace it with 2.8 and hit apply. Note how every weapon's eco is now 2.800. Also note how the mark-up has changed from 120% to "random" numbers. This is the mark up you have to buy at to get an eco of 2.8. So for the Vumpoor J 4 (L) we need to buy at 112.74% mark-up or less to reach the eco rating we want. However currently the ammo mark-up option does not work with the "eco based" option. You can check this by changing the 103 currently listed to say 200. If the Dmg/Pec(eco) columns don't drop then it's not working. For weapons that use explosives rounds this option is not useable and you will have to keep adjusting ammo and weapon mark up through "mark-up based" option until you get to what you like. For other L weapons it works fine though since you always pay 100% TT for ammo.

Now let's change over to laser and then carbine only weapons again. Do the 25 items per page and hit "6" so you're back to the Kiwio and Opalo page. Let's talk about using limited amps. Select the Shear XR40(L)(2 Dmg) amp it will be near the bottom of the list. Click apply. Note that you have changed the eco numbers to red and green. Unlike the A101 amp used before this amp can be used on the Kiwio mk2. Now check the "mark-up based" box and click apply. Note how the numbers have changed and even though still green went down. This is because these amps have mark-up and that mark-up has now be added into the eco. To access these preset mark ups as well as info on the amps look to the upper left and in the grey area. You should see "Weapon attachments" by selecting this it will bring up the direct info about all amps and other weapon attachments. You can look through it later for now we want to type in the true price that is currently on the AH. For that you type the number into "Amp mark up" box. For us lets type 110%. Now the eco displayed is if you bought that amp at 110% mark up. This will help you figure out at what price you need to buy the amp at to increase your eco or at least not lose eco. For this amp and the Kiwio just to increase DPS and maintain the Kiwio eco you would need to buy at roughly 103%.

Now however let's say you want to use a limited weapon with a limited amp well you simply find the weapon you're looking for. For us it will be the Ukash IW80 Rifle (L) which should be at the bottom of the list (if not increase the items per page number). Note that the eco is green meaning it can use this amp. We see it listed in the AH for 700% mark up. So go up to weapon mark up and type in 700 and hit apply. Note the eco has adjusted to your custom mark-up change. This new number is the eco you would get assuming you bought this weapon at 700% mark up and the amp at 103% mark up. Using these adjustments to entropedia you can see almost exactly what your eco will be if you buy things at the prices you list and in turn helping you plot what weapons and amp you wish to use.

Now some people will say "this is a lot of work to scratch out a few extra pec"... Oh wait that's what I say. It is a lot of work, which is generally why I don't like playing with (L) stuff. However it can be rewarding more so when you start getting into the prof 12+ equipment. Another thing when dealing with L equipment is you really need to roll with the equipment prices. Some weeks you're not going to be able to get the weapons and amps you want to hunt with. Guess what? Buy stuff that's cheap and use it. If X weapon is cheap in the AH and you use X weapon to hunt X target guess what? You're hunting X target this week. Some people get upset that they have to change from hunting say Atrox one week and then Foul next week or using a laser rifle and then having to change to a BLP pistol. If you don't mind changing hunting targets/weapons often because you're more interested in eco than hunting with a set weapon or on a set target, then using L equipment as the market lets you, can save you a lot of cash. Almost always some weapon is below mark-up value to be eco because there is an event going on in which the creature that drops it is being massively hunted. For that time frame you're going to reap the rewards of having cheap and easy access to that weapon. So you may as well use it. As a new player, this will not help you out so much, as you can only use a very small selection of weapons. But as your skills increase into the level 20 prof range a large numbers of weapons will open up for use.



4. Tiering and Enhancers



What is tiering and what are Enhancers? Basically tiering adds the ability to place 1 (or more than 1) enhancer onto an item. These enhancers can do many things from increasing the eco of the weapons/fap/armor to making them do more damage (weapons), more healing (faps), to taking less damage (armor).

So knowing that you say “Hey lets tier everything”… No don’t do it. In fact let me state clearly you will pretty much NEVER want to use enhancers and ALMOST NEVER want to tier stuff. Why is this?

Let’s do some math. Let’s take weapons enhancers and eco enhancers. If you still have your entropedia just stay at the Opalo if not go up one section and bring up the Opalo to the weapon list. Let’s for argument sake say you go wild and tier the Opalo up to tier 5. You can now place tier 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 enhancers onto the gun.

First let’s do weapon enhancers. On entropedia find the energy amp pull down menu and instead of clicking on it, look down at the bottom of the boxes for (select enhancer). Click it, this will open 10 more boxes below it. In the first 5 boxes pick “Weapon Damage Enhancer” ignore the I,II,III stuff. So the first 5 boxes should have weapon damage enhancer I-V marked in them. Now click apply. Look down at your Opalo… see any pretty colors? It shouldn’t have anything in fact you probably wondering what changed since eco is the same and there are no colors. If you look at the Damage column you’ll see that the max damage went from 8 to 12. Dmg/Sec went from 4.1 to 6.1. You say well that’s good right? Yes if it only did that however look at the costs. On the non-enhanced Opalo you have a decay of 0.020PEC, 200 Ammo (2 PEC) and total cost of 2.020 PEC per shot. For the now enhanced version the numbers are 0.030 PEC, 300 Ammo (3 PEC) and total cost of 3.030 PEC per shot. This is why the eco has stayed the same even though it’s doing more total damage and more dmg/sec it however costs more to fire. So now you say “So what! It's still the same eco and more Dmg/Sec that’s good right? Well yes if it was free however it’s not. Each enhancer costs at TT value 80 PEC (.80 PED) for 5 of them that’s 4 PED. Roughly speaking that’s 200 shots from the opalo non-enhanced. That’s roughly 33 extra punys that you could kill and then loot. The only benefit you get is Dmg/Sec which isn’t much and Dmg/Sec only really helps to reduce armor and healing costs… which should be zero or near zero for you anyway. So they really do no benefit there.

Now also consider 2 other important factors,
1. Enhancers break and that means if they break before you have saved your TT value in armor/healing costs you're losing money. This assumes you can even get the enhancers at TT value. Currently weapon enhancers are going for 400%.


2. A more important factor you’re doing 12 dmg and 6.1 Dmg/sec so you should be able to easily find a better gun with better eco to do more than that without enhancers aka the Breer M1a (L) or the Breer M2a (L). Why spend all the peds to tier then more peds to buy enhancers which break (sometimes very quickly) to turbo charge the Opalo when you can just get a better gun? You shouldn’t.

Now the main reason for this is the fact enhancers work on a percentage basis. Even simpler, if you put the 5%, 10%, etc gain on nothing, what do you get? Well nothing. The Opalo inherently doesn’t have high dmg or high costs so when you put the enhancer on it, it doesn’t change much. However the enhancers do cost a lot by themselves. You will see this more as we do eco enhancers. Take the 5 boxes and now change them to “Weapon Economy Enhancer”. Now let’s look at the opalo… ok its eco has now gone up to 2.897 Dmg/PEC this is good right it’s all about the eco…right?

Take the 5 boxes and now change them to “Weapon Economy Enhancer”. Now let’s look at the Opalo… OK its eco has now gone up to 2.897 Dmg/PEC this is good right it’s all about the eco…right? Well let’s look at how we got this eco boost. If you look at the cost columns you see that decay has dropped to 0.019 PEC (a reduction of 0.001 PEC), ammo has dropped to 190 per shot (cost 1.9 PEC saving 0.1 PEC), total costs have dropped to 1.919 PEC a savings of 0.11 PEC over the non-enhanced Opalo which costs 2.020 PEC per shot.
Each Economy Enhancer costs 1 PED in TT value (MU is 500%) but let’s stick to TT value for now. You're saving 0.11 PEC per shot. In order to just break even in TT value you will need to fire roughly 4,545 shots or roughly 87.20 PED. That’s to break even at TT value IE NO IMPROVEMENT. Every shot after 4,545 would be savings. Do you really think that the enhancers going to last 4,545 shots? Not only that you have 5 of them so your chances are 5x more likely that an enhancer is going to break. This is once again because enhancers are based on percent gains… and 50% of nothing is still nothing and you’re not even getting 50%. At a 500% M/U per enhancer well just 5x shots fired and you get 22,725 shots EACH enhancer must last to BREAK EVEN.
All this math and cost and we still haven’t talked about the costs to tier up the Opalo in the first place. If you now look to the left and find and click “Manufacturing” now select “tiers” from the menu above “Manufacturing” you will now see below the filters Column: “item” and then = then a type in box. Type op in the box and click OK. This has now searched by name op which brings up the Opalo. Note the tiers and the costs listed. In order to get to tier 4 on the Opalo it will cost you a total TT value of 32.53 PED.

This applies the same for armor, faps, etc. In order for enhancers to be eco you must be using something big vs the base TT value/MU of the enhancer in order to get any benefit. Now that’s not to say that you can’t tier up some of your lower stuff to grind up 'tier upgrader' skill, you can.
However many older players offer free upgrading (you supply the materials) so when you want to upgrade something big that enhancers are useful on that’s always an option. Realistically enhancers don’t become useful until you start getting into the 40+ profession equipment and higher grade armors that give 50-75 damage protection. Even then always check your math to be sure, as markup will heavily affect your eco.

5. Beginner Cheat sheet.

This guide was written mainly before the planet Cyrene was added to the game. Cyrene has greatly changed the way a new player can start many professions. Before Cyrene, one had a very large gap between the Kiwio mk2(Calypso TT weapon)/Cheap A$$ rifle(Rocktropia TT weapon) which maxed at profession 1 to the next level of TT weapons which all maxed at profession 5. Not only that but there were no melee weapons below profession 5 max in the TT. This changed with Cyrene which added a host of weapons including melee weapons that maxed below profession 5. Another huge factor is that Cyrene TT weapons are very eco.
All Cyrene TT weapons are maxed at profession 3. So for you starting out now your weapons selection will look like this depending on the planet you start at.
First Weapon
Kiwio Mk2/ Cheap A$$ rifle
Once you reach Profession 3 in the Hit and Dmg you will move on to the Cyrene weapon of similar profession. Most likely this will be the SI HK110 laser rifle.
As you use the SI HK110 your other skills will increase. If you plan on playing melee or even testing it out once you make profession 3 in the type of melee profession you will choose the Cyrene weapon as your first choice.
Warning. Just as a heads up the Cyrene Flamethrower (BLP Sniper) weapon is very hard to control because it does delayed damage. You can cause a lot of over kill with it. I recommend you avoid using it unless you’re hunting bigger mobs in the 30+ health range.

Simple form make sure to have both (Hit) and (Dmg) above the number, (Hit) will generally be way above (Dmg).

Laser Sniper 0---kiwio mk23 profession:---HK110--5 profession:---Herman LAW-101 (L)(MU of 133% or less) or Herman LAW-101 (L) (MU of 133% or less)/Herman LAW-99R +Omegaton A101 laser amp
Laser Pistol 0—kiwio mk2 and/or EWE-2 Proton(if you loot them)3 profession: SI Scorpion-5 profession: Herman CAP-101 (L)(MU of 120% or less) and/or with Omegaton A101 laser amp, Herman CAP-99 R+ Omegaton A101 laser amp. Important see notes at bottom.
Blp Sniper 0---kiwio mk23 profession: SI Flamethrower or use the HK110 for longer5 profession: Herman ARK-10 (L)(MU 133% or less) and/or+ Rage 5 Amp(MU 125% or less) See notes
Blp Pistol 0--- kiwio mk2 and/or EWE-2 Proton(if you loot them)3 profession: SI Scorpion-5 profession: Herman ASI-10 (L)(MU of 120% or less) and/or+ Rage 5 Amp(MU 125% or less) See notes
Shortblades 0---kiwio mk23 profession laser sniper (Hit): SI Combat knife7 profession shortblade (Hit)/(Dmg): Bukin blade. See notes
Longblades 0---kiwio mk23 profession laser sniper (Hit): SI Sword6 profession longsword (Hit)/(Dmg): Mako FAL-1(NO MU only if you are on Ark to get it from TT) or Next Island TT weapons7.65 profession: Falx or Labrys See notes
Powerfist 0---kiwio mk23 profession laser sniper (Hit): SI Blade See notes
Grenadier 0---kiwio mk23 profession laser sniper (Hit): Skildek Lancehead (L)
Others: Save them until you are much higher level.
Notes:
1. Prices for weapons such as the LAW 101, CAP-101, ARK-10, ASI-10 are AH. As long as you pay that price the weapon are still better than the UL counterparts in eco. It’s best however if you can trade directly with a crafter as you should be able to get about ½ off the MU (ie 133% become 116% and 120% becomes 110%).
2. Laser pistol notes. The CAP 101 will always be more eco then the CAP-99 at MU 120%. However if you can get an Omegaton A101 amp the eco become even. You would need to get your CAP-101s for 110% MU for the eco to be better enough to matter. Also of note is the fact that the CAP-99 has much higher DPS then the CAP-101 so generally if you can get an Omegaton A101 amp you’re probably better off just using the CAP-99.
3. Melee: to start all melee you should get to at least profession 3 in laser sniper (Hit). It would be best if you use laser or blp weapons until you have skilled your melee of choice to profession 3 (Hit)/(Dmg) through cross skilling. However that requires a sometime.
4. Powerfist: Powerfist has some pretty big gaps on eco weapons until you get to about profession 11. So either stick with the SI blade or you can cross skill using shortblades.
5. Grenadier/others: Don’t worry about skilling these other professions. However if you want to burn out any lanceheads you loot that’s fine. Save this stuff until you have a better grasp of the game.
6. Last note if you plan on skilling pretty much every weapon/trying them out. The best order would be Laser Rifle, Laser Pistol, Powerfist, Shortblade, Longblade, Blp Sniper, Blp Pistol. Generally that should prove the easiest to skill based on access to weapons and cross skilling from said weapons.
7. A note about Mind Force as you can see I don’t have anything about it. This is for two reasons. First I know very little about it because I don’t personally use it. Second I have not taken the time to research it. Sweating will help grind your mind force up so if your sweating you will be getting skills and later on if you wish to try out mind force you should be close to maxing the first set of chips.



Missions/Quest and the rewards you get.

For much of entropia’s life missions/quests which are very common sight in RPGs were nowhere to be found. This changed mostly in the major form of Iron Challenge Mission more so in that these missions give rewards.
As a non-depositor you may think that doing these quests first is the best option to grow quickly. It is an option and it will help you grow faster however lets the options look at all.
First let’s review a bit how attributes and skills work. In simplest terms one can look at attributes as levels in a standard RPG game. One strength is really level 1 in strength. This is important because like all RPGs gaining levels happens quickly at the low numbers and much more slowly at the higher levels. IE it will take very little time to go from say level 1 to level 10 but a long time to go from level 99 to level 100.
Attributes (and skills to a lesser part) work the same way. So the question becomes do you choose to do the Iron Missions earlier or mid or even much much later.
It is important to collect all the iron missions as soon as possible. The main reason for this is simply you may not be hunting the animals on the iron mission however one may randomly attack you. So when you have to kill it just because it’s attacking you, you at least get it credited toward your count. Now on the other hand you should generally avoid “grinding” iron missions (expect puny you will need to grind that one). The rewards you get normally are not huge next to the cost you put in, more so if you can’t hunt the mob very cheaply.

Iron mission rewards can be skills, attributes or a combo of both. If you plan on taking attributes you should save those attribute token for as long as possible. You should hold your token at least until you’re in your 60s for attributes but best if you can wait until you’re in your 90s.
As for skills much like attributes going from say 1000 skill point to 1001 is much easier than going from 2000 skill points to 2001. So any missions where you get skills you should try to hold off for longer however for different reasons. First reason is skill gains unlike attribute gains are based in TT value, ie it’s not a set number of skill points you get. So if a person who has 1000 skill points completes the mission they may move from 1000 to 1500 in skills. However if someone who already has 3000 skill points completes the mission they may only move to 3100 skill points.
When you first start out you will get lots of skills from fighting the “puny” class creatures, however these skill gains will start to drop off. You will need to fight bigger and bigger thing to keep gaining skills at the same rate, though for these guide/play style you should stick with punys for a while, you’re still going to get more skill per PED spent for a good while. Let’s say you did a mission really quickly because it was easy and got a decent amount of skill for it. Well when you go back to hunting punys your skill gains will be less because that skill has moved higher and thus vs punys you’re getting less skill. This will force you to move up to something bigger sooner. You should hold off doing any skill gaining quests until you’ve at least gotten into the profession 10+ range for whatever skill you’re going to get rewarded with.
It’s important to note as above you should avoid “grinding” iron missions expect for the puny mission. You need to hunt mobs that are within your ability as well as that you have the chance to sell the loot they drop. Now if those factors cross where you need something or can sell something that an iron mission mob drops then go for it.
Your first priority should be about the loot and eco of hunting the mob not the rewards from the quest. To many people hunt iron mission mobs and lose so much that the rewards don’t even come close to helping them get even, let alone make a surplus on the hunt.
This selection is all about personal choice you will need to decide when you want to get these rewards but as time is your asset the longer you hold off the bigger the reward becomes more so when you’re talking about attributes.
Another thing you could consider is you may want to pick a mid-level Iron Mission to start off with say the Allophyl mission. Do this as a kill only hunt (or work with the sweat group at Limnadian District) and then once you’re stronger Swunt the lower end missions. Just remember if you plan on doing some kind of group hunt/Swunt on them that you have the biggest weapon because most damage gets credited with the kill.
Important note: I will restate this again. When group hunting iron mission mobs the highest damage gets the kill. If you go and do say a group swunt of an iron mission mob some people purposely will use slightly bigger or amped weapons to take all the kills. Normally this person is the leader of the group who is basically using you and others to grind the mission for far cheaper.

HELP!!!!! I'm not getting anywhere.

I'll state this as simply as I can... It's going to take a good 3-6 months to get the ball rolling if you plan on going the non-deposit route. You're starting out with nothing and then slowly building up a PED balance. Then you're cycling that balance for an extra 5%-20% gain. When you don't have a lot to start with and you're only getting 5% growth it takes a while before that 5%+ becomes useful. You're going to need about 300 ped before the ball starts rolling and that 5%+ becomes enough for you to do some real skilling outside of the sweating/evader skill sets. Depending on sweat prices, time in game and luck, it will take you a while even in the best case. This guide is to help you get started and keep you playing steadily not to get rich quick.

Entropia is a game of years... 6 months is nothing in the time scale of Entropia. You need to keep that in mind as you do things. If you stick to the guide you'll be able to skill and play as most light depositors do and with luck even like many mid-level depositors do. 5%-20% gain off 10 ped isn't much but 5%-20% off 1,000 ped is a small hunting trip, off 10,000 ped... Well you get the picture. Plus you'll be gaining skills which will hopefully increase your gains/reduce your losses and have value in themselves should you choose to sell them. Remember this is a game of years, take your time and play your cards right.

To give you an idea what your skill gains will look like I tracked my skills for my play time. I removed the sweat gatherer skill since its useless, after 4 months of playing I had 2620.45. 60 days later 5140.7. 30 days later 7858.65

You'll note that in the 30 days of which I started cycling peds more I got more skill gain then in the first 4 months. Also of note is that during all this time I didn't sell 80% of my loot however I did buy many weapons, faps, a VTOL+thruster and some other things. Once you are able to build up to about 300 ped of total value in stuff and are easily cycling 100-200 ped your skill gain will take off. The hard part is staying the course and building up to that point.


You’re first iron mission.

Generally speaking you will take the puny iron mission from the Nus Lull (make sure to get the combibo quest too) to start out. This mission will take a good number of months to finish if you’re not depositing. If you swunt your way through the complete mission using eco weapons and not TTing all your loot and thus getting some MU for it, you’re going to be looking at a bank roll of between 100 and 600 ped. The range is large because it all depends on what you are able to sell your loot and sweat for.
Once you complete the puny mission next on the list is going for bigger game. This can mean either going for something like the snablesnot-male young which has 20 health. You will need roughly 108 health and about 10 profession evader to swunt the male young with decent success. Another option is to return to the gateway area. The gateway area has highland class mobs and daikiba cubs both which you can swunt at about the same level as the snablesnot.(Note sadly the diakiba cubs do NOT count toward your quest) Depending on what else you do in game you may complete the puny mission with those stats. However if you stick solely with the puny mission you will probably not be strong enough right away to do the snable male youngs. Even if you are strong enough you may decide that instead of doing snablesnots which are not a quest mob you will pick up the next iron mission. This mission is for shinkiba, currently you can hunt daikiba as well for the mission but this may change. Shiniba/daikiba youngs have 30 health they also hit a lot harder than snable male youngs.

You have to be pretty strong to swunt shinkiba. The first way to do this mission or snables if you wish is to run 1 or a few armor pieces (highly suggest only one). The main piece you will want is the harness. Most hits happen to your chest area thus having the harness will block about 40-50% of hits. The main reason I suggest only wearing a harness is because you still want to be badly damaged by the end of swunt kill. This way you save as much as possible in armor decay and have natural healing do most of the work. The more armor you are required to/do wear the more cost it is to swunt your target. My last suggestion would be to use L armor when doing this. The reason is that you can find 2 decent L armor from the TT that will let you do your swunt. The first one is Arctic(L) from Rocktropia. This armor will protect you from 1.5 points of damage. This is a very very tiny amount so you would either want to use a few pieces use this armor when you just need the tiniest of boosts to push you over the top. More likely you will start with Musca the TT armor from Arkadia it will offer 5 protection from shiniba/daikiba. To get these armors you can either ask you mentor or better if you spend some time going to other planets and at least having a look around. Another thing you can do is currently Arkadia and Cyrene give away armor plating for completing really easy starter quests. You can take these plates and add them to your armor to give it just a bit more of a boost if you’re still have problems but don’t want to add more pieces of armor. Armor plates don’t decay if you add or remove them.

The second option is to group swunt them. With 2-3 players of about 7+ evader you should be able to run through them fairly quickly. Just make sure you trade off on the kills so everyone gets credited toward the mission. As always the biggest damage gets the credit so everyone attacking it at the same time can result in a lopsided count going to one person. Also generally in team you tend to fire an extra 1-2 shots due to lag of it dying to someone else’s shot. So best to simply have 1 person kill it and rotate.
Another option is to use the sweat gun to sweat 2-3 successful times and then kill it. While the sweat you get will not be enough to cover a really bad hunt up to 100%, it will help bring a 60% loot return up to say a 75% loot return and thus reduce some of the danger should you get a really bad hunt.
Weapon break down.
Laser weapons

Laser weapons are generally your best starting weapons and will stay the most econ weapons until you get into your profession 20+.
Why are laser weapons econ and what advantage does this bring?
The main reason comes from Amps. Amps add huge amounts of econ to laser weapons. These amps are easily accessed at the lower levels both in price and on the weapons they can be equipped too.
Main draw backs to laser weapons start when you get into the higher levels, DPS starts to drop off next to BLP weapons and amps become much much more costly and harder to get.


BLP weapons

BLP weapons have some major drawback for a starting player. The biggest is on calypso you will not have any easy access to BLP weapons to start out with. You will need to either craft/buy weapons at reduced econ due to costs or you will need to seek weapons that come from off world (mainly being arcadia).
The other issue is that you will have little to no access to amps that will increase your econ. At best after markup you will break even. Until you get into the 20+ profession range you will not be able to access the good BLP amps and this is mostly due to the fact that most BLP amps must be equipped to fairly large weapons.
The big advantage you get from BLP is DPS. While you will often (more so at lower level) have decent to sometimes bad econ. As you move up in skill your DPS will greatly increase vs laser weapons and your econ will stabilize to be decent (low 2.8). Depending on the mobs your hunting DPS will save you a lot more ped in the long run then a slightly better econ. This is really a skill you should hold off until you get your laser weapons into the 8+ range. Laser and BLP have extreme cross skilling, roughly 70% of BLP/Laser weapon will cross over to the other. This means that you will be able to skill BLP quickly and high just by using laser weapons of the same group (rifle/handgun).
Important note for this, hopefully in future you will see more and cheaper lower end BLP amps hit the market. The Arkadia rage 5 amp even with an MU of 115-125% will increase econ on say the ark-10/asi-10 weapons and good boost to DPS. If you can get the bull Tac 10/20 at dirt cheap 105% you will see a slight boost as well. BLP amps are all about the MU and for the most part the MU is too high at the lower level amps.


Melee weapons

Melee weapons are a very mixed bag depending on what level you are and what you want to use them for.
The big advantage you will get from melee is HP. A lot of this when you first start out will come from strength which gives 1 HP point per 20 strength points. It is fairly easy to get 35 strength, which is roughly 1-3/4 HP. Important note is that powerfist does NOT give strength. A case in point is that if you have an almost pure melee user will at roughly profession 20 Hit will have 111 health. An almost pure range user (who sticks mostly to rifle or handgun) by profession 20 Hit you’re looking at about 105 health.
Downsides to melee. The big downside is the huge gaps in weapons profession usage. Some of this is because the weapons are hard to get or they simply don’t exist. Another issue is that generally melee weapons have poor econ next to laser/blp weapons. This is mainly due to the lack of having amps. However recent beginner melee weapons being release from cyrene have good econ. Later when you get into the 20+ range better econ weapons open up.
Important note with this is that when buying L melee weapons generally you’re going to have to buy under 105% (often at 102%-103%) in order to keep econ above 2.8. This results in a lack of melee weapons being produced and bought.
Slight myth involving melee. If you search through the forum you will find the statement “melee gives more defensive skills”. This is not really true. The vast majority of players start melee after they have been in the game a good bit of time and normally they start as ranged players. The average ranged player at profession 30 will have about profession 10 evader. The average level 50 ranged player will have 25-30 profession evader. Simple reality is that most range player have next to no evade because they kill the mob long before it attacks them. So you will find many many ranged player in the under 20 profession in ranged weapons have evader of like 5.
When they start using melee suddenly they are actively engaging in melee combat and thus getting evade skill. This creates a distorted view that it is because of the melee weapon vs being in melee combat. If you choose to be a swunter be it with ranged weapons or melee your evader profession will increase hugely next to pure range hunters (and even vs drive by melee users who kill in 1 swing). This is simply because when swunting you will spend large amounts of time engaged in melee combat and thus grind your defense skills. As far as I’ve seen it’s near impossible to tell a melee swunter apart from a ranged swunter when it comes to defense skills. So if you want to grind defense don’t feel the need to “have to” use melee.
A few other research notes.



Many people use SIB weapons/equipment and wonder “what's the next item above the one they are currently using”. If you still have your weapon list open, look to the right side on the same bar that "type:" is on and you will see Configure columns (XX hidden). Click the box. This will expand entropedia to "max" info. As above, entropedia has huge sums of info and you can quickly get confused. For this example we're just going to scroll to the right looking for the columns "Hit profession" and "Damage profession". Below each check the boxes marked "Rec." and "Maxed". Then all the way to the right uncheck the "Configure columns" box. Note that you have reduced the amount of info again but have 4 extra columns. Under the "Hit profession" Column click on "Rec." Now go down to the lower left and select "All" where before you picked "6". "Rec." stands for Recommended level that your SIB will start (aka the lowest level you should be using this weapon). By clicking "Rec." you have now sorted the weapons listed by the level at which you can use the weapon. For us we're going to ignore the 0 weapons that have no SIB. With this sorting group you can easily see what the next SIB weapon is that you need once you max the current one you're using. You can also see when you current SIB weapon is maxed and so forth. Almost always Hit and Dmg professions start and max at the same level. You can use this sorting method for any equipment.
It’s important to note that you should NEVER use an L/SIB WEAPON before you are in or above the SIB range. This is because you take both a damage dealt and chance to hit penalty and it is fairly large. Also you should really wait until you get to about 80% finished on the weapon before using it. IE for (Hit) profession you should be near 8.0 for hit and crit chance. Since all weapons damage specs are different just match your hit profession to the 8.0 and that’s what your damage profession should be near to reach the 80% mark. Using a weapon that has fewer than 5.0 for chance to hit is going to cause you to lose huge amounts of PED in misses. The same goes for damage profession you’re going to be missing out on a lot of damage.


Crafting
Warning DO NOT DO CRAFTING

Since you’re not going to listen to the above warning I am including a simple overview of crafting and how not to lose your shirt doing it at the start.
Crafting is pretty straight forward. Have materials, place materials into constructor, pick your blueprint, press construct, lose all the materials you placed inside machine, get nothing back. Simple, easy, hey where’s your shirt?

Residue

Let’s start with some basics. The most important thing to know about crafting is residues. Currently they’re 5 types of residue. 4 are important the 5th is tailoring remnants which can only be used for tailoring.
The 4 main types are: Animal oil residue (as a hunter you will get lots of this),
Robot Component residue (if you hunt robots you will get this),
Energy and metal residue which come almost solely from crafting.
As you should know at this point (L) items cannot be repaired. However during crafting the TT result of an (L) item maybe far less than the max TT of said item. Let’s say you are making an item and its broken TT value is 0.25 PED, its max TT is 10 ped. If you just craft the item you can get anywhere from 0.25 value items, up to 10 ped value items. Well no one is going to buy the broken 0.25 item, it’s broken already. In order to prevent that and make sure you get max TT items every success you use residue. For every 0.01 ped of residue you have you can add 0.01 ped to the TT value of any item you create. This applies to both (L) and UL items… generally since UL can be repaired it’s wasteful to use residue to craft them.
So for the above item let’s say were just making one of them. Since I know the lowest TT is 0.25 ped I should have at least 9.75 ped in residue to max sure I get the max TT value of 10. Sometimes you will need more residue then the lowest value but for basics don’t worry about that.


What residue goes where

When you look at the blueprint it will give you a list of items you need to make it. If the blueprint uses ores you can use metal residue, enmatters you can use energy, animal oils such as muscle oil you can use animal oil residue and if it uses robot parts you can use robot residue.
For 99% of blueprint metal and energy residue are the same ie if you can use one you can use the other.
The inverse is also true. When crafting, the items you put into the blueprint result in that type of residue. So if you’re using a blueprint that only uses ores and enmatters you will only get metal and energy residue.
First basic crafting circle

The main purpose of this guide to is prevent you from bleeding ped like crazy. In crafting bleeding ped is what you do when you start. Crafting has a lot of pieces to it and each must be right in order to have a chance to break even. This includes, having the BP, finding/buying the materials, having the skills and luck to produce the item, having the right residue if needed and then having someone to sell too said item.
The easiest way to not lose ped is to remove as many of these pieces as possible. First and foremost to remove is trying to sell this item to other players. A simple reality is that any item you can produce at this level… EVERYONE can produce. Also all starting crafting stuff is hugely oversupplied because everyone has to start crafting somewhere. I strongly suggest as a starter BP to use the ARK-10 Blp rifle.
The reasons are as follows
1. The ARK-10 is a starter BP which goes from profession 0-5.
2. The ARK-10 is a good weapon that you can use yourself thus removing the need to sell it.
3. The ARK-10 BP uses adrenal oil which means that you can use animal oil residue with it.
Downside is it’s hard to get the ores at a decent price unless you are on Arkadia. If you take the guns you make and then swunt you should about break even through the whole process. Plus it will give you something useful to do with your animal oil residue. When using any weapons you also skill up a single skill in crafting it. For BLP its BLP weapons tech and for laser its laser weapons tech and so on. So just by using the ARK-10 you will also gain some crafting skill as well.


Repair skilling

A common way to grind up crafting when you start is to buy rk-5s and welding wire and hop on a mothership or star finder and repair it for skills. Repairing will boost mainly Mechanics, Electronics, Vehicle Technology and Engineering. You will of course get repairing skills but they have no crafting value the above do have crafting value. One more skill which repairing can give is Blueprint Comprehension however you most reach profession 10 in any skill listed in crafting profession page. Ideally you will unlock BP Comp by getting your Struct repair profession to 10. If you decide to do that most of your crafting skills will range from about 2 low end, 3.5 high end. It will cost a good bit of ped to do this, you’re looking at 200 ped depending on the costs. Roughly speaking you’ll need to burn through about 7-8 rk-5s to unlock BP Comp.
The big plus from doing repairing is that it’s very quick. You’re looking at 6-8 hours to grind up a lot of skill. You can also repair AFK so you just set the auto-tool and leave. The down side is its pure skill gain. Every ped you use you get nothing in return for it expect skills.


A few basic commands.

Vehicles: you will get some on each planet as part of the starter missions. If your vehicle “disappears” you can try the following.
1. Scroll down to bottom sometimes things appear in the bottom of your inventory.
2. Recall all vehicles to storage. Very important note. Not all storage areas are linked. Each planet has its own storage, space AND very important places like the calypso gateway(starter area on cally) and arctic on rocktropia among others. If you “lose” your vehicle in say the calypso gateway when you use the recall all vehicles to storage option you must use the calypso gateway storage terminal not the camp Icarus storage terminal.
To recall all vehicles to storage, right click an open area, go down to “Control” tab, “Vehicle” tab then “Recall all vehicles”.

Finding players: right click an open area, go to “System” tab then select “Player register” then type in a name into search option. You can look for mentors by selecting “Mentor register”.



Space


Just a quick primer on space. VTOLs and Quad wings are the ships that can move from planet to space and back to planets again. You can also hitch lifts from motherships/starfinders. Many people also offer VTOL/QUAD taxi service.
What you need for space. 1 ship, 1 space thruster, 1 rk-5 repair tool, some welding wire to repair with, oil (about 4 ped low end to safely travel 1 way), 2 ped for landing on the planet(7 ped if you are using the teleporter on the space station).
Important Note. Space is lootable PVP. Anything that is in either the Materials tab or Mined Resource tab can be looted if you are killed. Add in any enhancer you have are lootable as well. This includes any you place inside your spawned or despawned vehicles that you are currently carrying on your person.

If you are looking for mothership transport the two main groups are
http://entropiatransport.com/24-7-flight-schedule/
and
http://www.warp.ms/

----------------------------------


I am currently will take disciples however I got a lot of rules for it so its not going to be a cake walk by any means. If your looking for free stuff, try the higher level rich player hehe. Also keep in mind I do mostly hunting, near zero mining and am just teaching myself crafting. If you want to do mining or crafting you're probably much better off finding a mentor in that field.


Also as stated above this is rough draft right now feel free to go all grammar and spelling nazi on it.

This guide is pretty much everything you need to know to start the game. So if you choose to take your time finding a mentor you won't have any problems starting.

O one last thing just in case your wondering... yes 15,264 words total you just read.

I know how much effort and time was put into this guide and after reading through it I wish it had been around when I started because I kept nodding and saying "yep I made that mistake too".

As it is such a long read is it available to download, so that I can read it at my own pace and refer back to it in the future?

+ Rep BTW

I have also requested this be moved to the 'tutorial & guides' section and be made a sticky.

Nicely done!

Very nicely done! Even for depositers the money goes so quickly that everything in this guide applies to them as well. I'm new to EU and I think you have done a wonderful job!

Nice read! (No Offence but I brought my laptop into the can with me isntead of the usual magazine.) Wish I'd have read this BEFORE making my EU account.... would have been much better prepared for the game!

+REP! Hopefully alot of beginners take the time to read this extensive guide!

Menace

Nice read, I don't agree entirely on the never tier or use enhancers part. For users of melee, enhancers are the only way to get more dps. Ofcourse you should use a bigger melee weapon instead of tiering one to mimic the other. But if there are none available, or the next step up is reallly costly, then tiering could be an alternative, simply because there are no melee amps.

This is an excellent guide, I started as a non depositor for the first couple of years, and totally agree with everything you say. You make my job of mentoring non depositing sweaters a lot easier, as I will add your guide to their reading list.

+rep

Spawn said:

Nice read, I don't agree entirely on the never tier or use enhancers part. For users of melee, enhancers are the only way to get more dps. Ofcourse you should use a bigger melee weapon instead of tiering one to mimic the other. But if there are none available, or the next step up is reallly costly, then tiering could be an alternative, simply because there are no melee amps.

Click to expand...

This guide is for noobs and for non-deposit/low-deposit players. Its perfectly fine if you want to run your econ into the ground or if your a mid to higher profession players to use enhancers. I include this note in the guide.

This applies the same for armor, faps, etc. In order for enhancers to be eco you must be using something big vs the base TT value/MU of the enhancer in order to get any benefit. Now that’s not to say that you can’t tier up some of your lower stuff to grind up 'tier upgrader' skill, you can.
However many older players offer free upgrading (you supply the materials) so when you want to upgrade something big that enhancers are useful on that’s always an option. Realistically enhancers don’t become useful until you start getting into the 40+ profession equipment and higher grade armors that give 50-75 damage protection. Even then always check your math to be sure, markup will heavily effect your eco.

Click to expand...

No noob should or could be using enhancers unless he's getting them for free or wants to burn peds like crazy. Realistically the first thing any player will likely use enhancers on is a the marber when they use it for tagging. Putting on Acc enhancers can be a huge benefit and then later as you get higher other enhancers/combos of enhancers. However once again no noob is going to be rolling around with a marber and most players don't start getting them until they get at least 10+ in profession standings.

The other issue is up course M/U if you can get enhancers for free but for some reason can't sell them go crazy using them. On the other hand if you paying 500% M/U on an econ enhancer your never going to make that ped back in "savings" from the enhancer using an opalo, unless you've tested it to be able to run the huge amount of ped required to even break even and found they often save... theirs no point for a noob to be gambling that amount of ped on "saving" 1 or 2 pec at the risk of losing 1 or 2 ped.

One of the reason why I use econ enhancers instead of say damage enhancers is because the math is alot more straight forward. Another thing being that damage enhancers math is under the idea you make savings from reduced armor and healing costs. Well for this guide your armor and healing costs will ALWAYS be zero. Thus you gain zero savings from using damage enhancers. The only thing you gain by using damage enhancers is faster kills. Which is covered in the very first part of the guide as the simple scale of ped spent vs time spent. Using damage enhancers will decrease your time spent but increase your ped spent.

I am a melee guy as well and you are correct that for say powerfists and maybe even knives that at some point you will be required to be slightly less econ by running enhancers. However for long blades this shouldn't be an issue and realistically thats once again a choice on the ped spent vs time spent scale. If you choose to move toward spending more ped thats your choice and hopefully the research you do before making that choice gives you a belief that its the "best" choice.


edit

Once again I will state I hate working with the math effects of damage enhancers because the amount of factors is large.

Another factor to include is is it cheaper to have an herb box fapper fapping you vs using damage enhancers. I would say again that for lower levels your more likely to save more by having a noob fapper then paying for the enhancer plus the fapper gets skills which assuming its a disciple or soc mate benefits you/the soc.

nice post!!! new guide for a noob.

Nobleone said:

As it is such a long read is it available to download, so that I can read it at my own pace and refer back to it in the future?
+ Rep BTW

Click to expand...

Very simple! do this:

reply to his post with quote, select the whole text and copy...
Then paste it in sticky note, word pad or MS Word....save it as word document or rich text format...
Later you can even transfer to your cell phone and read it wherever you are!

This guide is tops. I have a question about eco. I'm currently using the TT kiwi just starting out. Next gun is apalo. In the guide they talked about 2.8 being good eco.

" On the other hand for the Opalo you see a green number and that number is 2.861 which is higher than its old eco of 2.752 (and that of the Kiwio's 2.832) and also above 2.8 making it "good". You should not be using the Opalo until its maxed (i.e. you have prof 5 in laser sniper and laser dmg) nor should you ever use it without an A101 amp."

What's the difference between 2.7 vs 2.8 using an apalo. How much savings is that .1 eco. Kind of want to figure out the savings. I hunt with 20 PED worth of ammo currently. My returns so far are 90% for this week hunting grinding on puny with kiwi 2. If I were to get 90% using apalo with correct mob at 2.7 what would it theoretically be at 2.8 eco? Is it minute to nitpick .1 eco?

Looks like a nice guide, I may have to read through it when I have more time, even though I probably know most of this stuff already.

Just a quick note - under tiering, you have the same text twice:

robotech master said:

Now the main reason for this is the fact enhancers work on a percentage basis. Even simpler, if you put the 5%, 10%, etc gain on nothing, what do you get? Well nothing. The Opalo inherently doesn’t have high dmg or high costs so when you put the enhancer on it, it doesn’t change much. However the enhancers do cost a lot by themselves. You will see this more as we do eco enhancers. Take the 5 boxes and now change them to “Weapon Economy Enhancer”. Now let’s look at the opalo… ok its eco has now gone up to 2.897 Dmg/PEC this is good right it’s all about the eco…right?
Now the main reason for this is the fact enhancers work on a percentage basis. Even simpler, if you put the 5%, 10%, etc gain on nothing, what do you get? Well nothing. The Opalo inherently does have high dmg or high costs so when you put the enhancer on it, it doesn’t change much. However the enhancers do cost a lot by themselves. You will see this more as we do eco enhancers.

Click to expand...

Torrentula81 said:

This guide is tops. I have a question about eco. I'm currently using the TT kiwi just starting out. Next gun is apalo. In the guide they talked about 2.8 being good eco.

" On the other hand for the Opalo you see a green number and that number is 2.861 which is higher than its old eco of 2.752 (and that of the Kiwio's 2.832) and also above 2.8 making it "good". You should not be using the Opalo until its maxed (i.e. you have prof 5 in laser sniper and laser dmg) nor should you ever use it without an A101 amp."

What's the difference between 2.7 vs 2.8 using an apalo. How much savings is that .1 eco. Kind of want to figure out the savings. I hunt with 20 PED worth of ammo currently. My returns so far are 90% for this week hunting grinding on puny with kiwi 2. If I were to get 90% using apalo with correct mob at 2.7 what would it theoretically be at 2.8 eco? Is it minute to nitpick .1 eco?

Click to expand...

Sorry for taking so long to response. Realistically short term the number isn't huge. As long as you use a finisher for punys the eco difference won't be much. However if you are a non-depot guy just starting out that can still be enough to slow you down.

The big thing with the opalo is when you start burning like 100 ped on group hunts then your talking big enough to matter. Basically the econ numbers are damage per pec spent. So for 20 ped(2000 pec) all you do is take 2000 times 2.7(=5400 damage) vs 2.8(5600) so your looking at doing about 200 point more damage(about 20 more kills) if you just use the kiwi.

If your just dealing with punys the kiwi is generally way better. If you go bigger then even though the kiwi is more econ it may lose to the mobs regen and cost more to kill. End run kiwi is pretty much the choice if you only have caly weapons to hunt punys with.


To RobBuona thx will fix it

am I not seeing the guide here..only see parts of it that ppl recopied..wheres the rest?

removed issue fixed.

a bump and I was planning on doing an update sometime in sep for some of the new things and dealing with the new iron missions however since the iron mission patch has been changed to later, I may hold off until after that patch.

Ok I have updated the guide looks like everything is working will be checking back for a few days because of all the links sometimes guide disappears until mods approve it.

Excellent Guide

some very good info here

just a note about the cap99; it's full amxed at level 6 , not 5 as entropedia says:

Supertramp said:

...
just a note about the cap99; it's full amxed at level 6 , not 5 as entropedia says:
..

Click to expand...

Thanks, Entropedia updated

back to the front

Bumping this while I was here looking for it so I could send a new disciple the link....

Menace

Congratulations

This is a great read and should be essential reading for any newer player. My avatar is 18 months old and I have never understood the tiering / enhancers properly until this post, so thank you for that.

Best guide ever read
Just one question. How do u get item from other planets TT

Dczbrood said:

Best guide ever read
Just one question. How do u get item from other planets TT

Click to expand...

You probably already found out since this is very late respond but you either have to goto the other planets or buy from other players who've been to other planets/from the AH.


Just a bump and maybe i'll find the time soon to add some more and do a clean up for old info on this.

you should add something about the puny bone mission also. seems a great way for noobs to make a few peds

Small note: to evaluate wether melee does or not give more defensive skills, check out the skills impacting de dodger, respectively evader prostandings, then verify those skills' impact in (hit) prostandings of various ranged vs melee.

Example: CR impacts 3% in ranged (hit) while 5% in melee (hit). Hence it will be gained more when 1. melee and being attacked than 2. pistol and being attacked than 3. rifle and being attacked than 4. any other hit and being attacked than 5. kill before it reaches you. Whipper is the melee exception.

And powerfist does give strength (Brawler(Hit)):

http://www.entropiawiki.com/Info.aspx?chart=Skill&id=82

Great read, as a returning Entropia (still skill 1 tho) this was very usefull, glad I read it before I started burning the old Opallo.

Btw could you write something for newbs non-depo wanting to start mining?
Cheers

Awsome guide. Thank you for taking the time and effort to put it down. Makes life easier and I will definately be sending my disciples and others to have a read on it too

Hey mate,

I keep referring back to your guide whenever i want to know something.
I do think however that the cheat-sheet is a bit outdated since some of the weapons listed don't seem to exist anymore.

Keep up the good work